Opaque black core, dark red rim. An aromatic assault / surge / eruption of soy, hoisin, balsamic reduction … coiled around a core of kirsch and fresh raspberry. All in balance, all respectful of fruit and oak. And yet, so ‘classy’ – a brightness, a sheen, a gloss, a raciness – belying both age and upbringing. Formidable, No gaps, a densely-packed structural continuum. Not huge, not massive, yet taut, muscular, feisty. A black palimpsest - black fruits, black liquorice, black pudding, black fig, black cardamom....Granitic chewy tannins linger and coat; oak all but fully concealed, submerged beneath a tannin/oak/acid/flavour tsunami.